A Travelogue by Jennifer Campbell
Have you ever wanted to pinch yourself to see if you were having a dream? That is exactly how I felt when I arrived in Budapest, Hungary. While I had been to Europe on three previous occasions, this trip was vastly different. After forty ocean cruises, my Dad and I were embarking on our first Viking River Cruise adventure. Although it wasn’t a dream, the storybook landscapes did resemble a fairy tale! From Hungary to Austria and Germany to the Netherlands, we listened to magnificent philharmonic orchestras, explored the inside of castles and windmills, and tasted delightful delicacies. If you want to feel like royalty, take the Grand European Tour with Viking River Cruises. They treat passengers like Kings and Queens!
DAY ONE - BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
The moment we arrived in Budapest, we were given red carpet treatment. Greeted by the Viking representative at the airport, we were escorted to the shuttle which transported us to our five-star hotel situated along the Danube River. The pre-cruise extension package we purchased with Viking not only provided a home base at the Intercontinental Hotel in Budapest, but also a daily
breakfast buffet at the hotel. This buffet had everything from an omelette station and an assortment of Hungarian specialties to fresh-baked pastries and an Asian section. Needless to say, breakfast was always a feast for the senses! The Intercontinental is within walking distance of many prominent sites, including the Chain Bridge, Buda Castle, and Shoes on the Danube. Albeit a solemn experience, a visit to the Shoes on the Danube is a chilling reminder of the inexplicable horrors of World War II. These sixty pairs of iron shoes are a memorial to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen.
After paying our respects, we strolled along the Danube to visit the Parliament Building. Located in Lajos Kossuth Square, this iconic building is one of Europe’s oldest legislative buildings and proudly stands as Budapest’s tallest structure. The only question is whether or not this massive structure is more beautiful in the daylight or at night when it is lit up like a Christmas tree!
On our first evening in Budapest, we stumbled upon a free concert featuring the Young Artist Chamber Orchestra from Utah. What a treat to hear these young musicians play from their hearts at St. Michael’s Church. The acoustics were impeccable!
Following the concert, we enjoyed a lovely dinner at Europa Café. Just thinking about the spicy goulash soup, fresh baked bread, perfectly seasoned chicken paprika with potatoes and sweet assortment of Hungarian cakes and ice cream makes my mouth water! It is so delicious that you will definitely make plans to return!
I knew from the moment I laid my head on the pillow on our first night in Budapest that this trip would be legendary. For in one single day, we had flown across the Atlantic Ocean and walked 6.5 miles through the stately streets of Budapest. Even as an avid traveler, I have yet to master the art of sleeping on the plane, so it was certainly time to turn in for the night following 37 hours of exploration!
DAY TWO - BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
Imagine waking up in Budapest and enjoying breakfast while looking up at the noble Buda Castle. Shortly after another delectable breakfast at the hotel, we were cruising down the tracks of the Budapest metro, the best way to get around the city. Our first stop was Buda Hill. After marveling at the Castle from the hotel, we wanted to explore this splendid hilltop, from the colorful mosaic adorning the roof of Mathias Church to the breathtaking view from Fisherman’s Bastion. It was the perfect vantage point from which to capture photographs of the Viking longships, our hotel, and the Parliament Building.
As we descended the hill, the funicular took us within a short distance of the famous Chain Bridge, so a leisurely walk across the Danube was a must! When considering what to have for dinner on our second evening in Hungary, there was little discussion, as the Europa Café was the only logical choice! The Hungarian cuisine was the perfect way to end an active day filled with amazing adventures!
DAY THREE - BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
Alas, it was time to check out of the Intercontinental Hotel. Of course, there were no tears shed, for checking out simply meant checking in to the pristine Viking Ingvi longship! Not wanting to waste any time in this capital city, we hopped on a tram and went to the Grand Market Hall, also known as Central Market Hall. Boasting produce, fresh meats, spices, souvenirs, and more, this marketplace is one of the oldest and largest indoor markets in Budapest.
Later that morning, we returned to the Ingvi to don our swimwear for our visit to Széchenyi Thermal Baths, the largest medicinal baths in Europe. What a refreshing way to cool off on a sweltering summer afternoon! With fifteen pools to choose from, both indoors and outdoors, it is the perfect place to relax and rejuvenate. We chose to spend our time one of the main outdoor pools and even took a few spins in the whirlpool, a merry-go-around type feature that will definitely put a smile on your face! One of the most touching moments occurred where the locals were watching the soccer championship on a large screen in one corner of complex. The national anthem was being sung before the game began. Chills went up and down my spine as I watched the locals stand up and cheer in honor of their country. I must admit, I cheered right along with them in support of this European country that now holds a special place in my heart.
Before the sun went down, we enjoyed our first Viking River Cruise dinner experience. It was simply incredible. I chose the Hungarian Farmer’s Plate for my first course, the Hungarian Goulash for my second course, and Hungarian layer cake for my dessert. The perfect meal to eat while in Hungary (or in any other part of the globe – it was amazing). Following our marvelous meal, the Captain took the entire longship for a sightseeing cruise to see the lights of the city. Budapest is so beautiful at night, with all of the buildings lit up! What an incredible sight to see!
DAY FOUR - BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
On Sunday, my Dad and I had the privilege of singing at the International Church of Budapest. What a joy to spend Father’s Day, an American holiday, alongside my Dad as we shared our stories and sang original songs for the congregation. We hope to return one day, for the people were so humble and kind. Visiting with them and hearing many of their stories was so heart-warming. It was undoubtedly one of the most special moments of our entire summer.
Our last day in Budapest, we enjoyed a delightful lunch along the Danube at Jerney Italian Bistro, where we savored a traditional
The Viking Ingvi Crew provided excellent service. From Csaba, the Bar Chef, to Krisztina, the Hotel Manager, and of course, Rob, the Program Director, Tamara, the Concierge, Vivijen, the Receptionist, Daniel, the Musician, Judit, Bar Waitress, and Bojana, the Maître D', all of the crew on board worked hard to ensure that our river cruise was nothing short of exceptional. Many others contributed to an phenomenal cruise as well. Their meticulous service is very much appreciated. Many of the crew members became friends over the course of our two-week sailing.
The Captain held a welcome aboard party that evening as a prelude to dinner. My menu selections included the potato crusted mascarpone cheese with a truffle sabayon sauce for my first course, Chateaubriand with buttered vegetables, potatoes, and a béarnaise sauce for my entrée, and a strawberry sponge cake for dessert. It was the perfect way to end another perfect day.
DAY FIVE - VIENNA, AUSTRIA
Following a wonderful meal and a delightful “day at river,” we sprung for the Mozart and Strauss Concert that evening. Sitting on the front row of Schubert Hall, I was captivated by the excellent musicianship and talent that exuded from the platform as the Vienna Residence Orchestra performed. To welcome us back on the ship, the chef prepared Goulash soup and fresh baked bread as a late night snack, which was the perfect way to conclude a delightful evening.DAY SIX - VIENNA, AUSTRIA
DAY SEVEN - MELK, ABBEY
Founded in 1089, Melk Abbey towers over the medieval town of Melk, Austria. This Benedictine abbey sits high upon a hill, offering a mesmerizing view of the Danube River as well as the surrounding hills, villages, and vineyards. Coupled with a meandering walk down the hill, through the old town, across the bridge, and through the woods, it definitely feels like you have stepped right into the pages of a storied fable!
DAY EIGHT - PASSAU, GERMANY
Break out your lederhosen and dirndls! The first stop in Bavaria is Passau, Germany, home of the world’s largest cathedral pipe organ, boasting more than 17,000 pipes! Thanks to Viking, we were able to attend a concert to hear this monstrous musical instrument being played. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable, sharing a detailed history of the “Three Rivers City,” named for the three rivers that converge in Passau: the Danube, Inn, and Ilz Rivers.
Our Dinner Selections on Board the Viking Ingvi: blue cheese
stuffed meatballs and micro herbs with a porcini dust reduction, osso buco with shallot confit, porcini risotto, and a lemon herb gremolata prime rib eye steak with a herb chimichurri, steak fries, and a vegetable medley, and apple cake, a regional specialty.
DAY NINE - REGENSBURG, GERMANY
Home of the oldest bratwurst grill, Regensburg, Germany is a colorful town featuring a 12th century stone bridge that is 310 meters long with with 16 arches. The city center has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, considering the well-preserved medieval structures, such as the Gothic Regensburg Cathedral.
DAY TEN - NUREMBERG, GERMANY
While Viking provides an excellent complimentary excursion in most ports, we chose to take the World War II tour in Nuremberg, Germany. As a Language Arts teacher, I am required to teach the Holocaust. Teaching this difficult subject becomes a little easier when I can share personal experiences with my students, such as touring Congress Hall and Courtroom 600, where the Nuremberg Trials were held. While this tour was quite the somber experience, our lovely tour guide has now become a dear friend.
DAY ELEVEN - BAMBERG, GERMANY
Where do you go from Nuremberg? To Venice, of course! Bamberg, Germany is home to Little Venice, a former fisherman’s district constructed of half-timbered houses. Of course, the landmark destination in this Bavarian town would be a tie between the Bishop’s Palace and ornate rose garden or the Town Hall building situated right in the middle of the river Regnitz. According to legend, the Bishop would not grant land to the citizens, so they built an artificial island on which to construct this colorful town hall. Be sure to ask your tour guide about the “legacy” the artist left behind on the painted mural!
DAY TWELVE - WÜRZBURG, GERMANY
Our Dinner Selections on Board the Viking Ingvi: truffle scented chicken cassoulet with a puff pastry crust, mushrooms, and tarragon, roasted tenderloin of beef with pommes duchesse and béarnaise sauce, surf and turf with salmon with hollandaise sauce and roasted tenderloin of beef with pommes duchesse and béarnaise sauce, brownie and white chocolate sauce, and warm white chocolate and cherry pudding with caramel ice cream.DAY THIRTEEN - WERTHEIM, GERMANY
Our Dinner Selections on Board the Viking Ingvi: Caesar salad, provolone cheese plate with a pineapple-vanilla chutney, pepper crusted chicken breast with glazed baby carrots and chickpeas, straw potatoes, and a chipotle jus, and tiramisu.DAY FOURTEEN - KOBLENZ, GERMANY
On the way to Koblenz, Germany, we sailed past countless castles and tremendous townships. We even had the opportunity to have the perfect vantage point from which to view Loreley Rock. Known as the Gateway to the Rhine Gorge, Koblenz is a short motor coach ride to the Marksburg Castle, part of the included tour provided by Viking. I was awestruck by the spectacular hilltop vista, overlooking the town of Braubach. As we stepped across the threshold of this centuries old castle, it felt as if we had left reality and stepped into the pages of a make-believe fable.
Our Dinner Selections on Board the Viking Ingvi: crisp tandoori chicken & parmesan foam with tomato salad, pumpkin mousse ravioli with lamb loin and a sweet chili sauce, beef wellington napoleon style with sautéed vegetables and pommes duchesse, and crisp dark Valrhona chocolate tart with mango salad.DAY FIFTEEN - COLOGNE, GERMANY
What a treat to be notified by the Viking Concierge that the Cologne Philharmonic Orchestra was holding a free concert that afternoon! It was one of the most enjoyable concerts we experienced on our Grand European Tour.Wanting to maximize our time in the city center, we enjoyed a quick lunch at Merzenich, a delightful bakery near the Cologne Cathedral. We shared a sandwich called a Fitness Fladen, including turkey, lettuce, cucumbers, shredded carrots, boiled eggs, and a remoulade. Very unique and extremely tasty! Of course, I also did a little shopping along the way, as there are plenty of enticing shops on Schildergasse, the busiest pedestrian-only shopping street in Europe with 13,000 people passing by every hour!
Our Dinner Selections on Board the Viking Ingvi: The Viking Taste of Germany Dinner menu included roast leg of port, bratwurst, tiroler knödel, sauerkraut, knödel, Viennese schnitzel, roast chicken, grilled käsekrainer, potato salad, and much more!
DAY SIXTEEN - KINDERDIJK, NETHERLANDS
Named for a Dutch folkloric story of a cat saving a child’s life, Kinderdijk translates to “children’s dike.” Located 15 kilometers east of Rotterdam, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for a unique collection of 19 authentic windmills from the 18th century. While on the Viking tour, you will not only have the opportunity to walk along the picturesque dike, but you will also be invited to explore the inside of one of these historic structures and even speak to a local miller. It is an unforgettable experience that was only overshadowed by the fact that this was the final day of our river cruise.
OVERALL IMPRESSIONS
Throughout this Grand European Tour, there were moments when goose bumps covered my arms, tears filled my eyes, and my heart was overwhelmed with joy. While my diary entries were scattered, at best, I am certain I will never forget the places we explored, the remarkable experiences we shared, and the many strangers we now call friends. My first Viking River Cruise etched indelible memories in my mind and effectively tugged on my heartstrings as well. As we received our customs form on the flight home, the reality of returning to the “real world,” began to sink in. Yet I encouraged myself with this thought: all good things must come to an end, so new ones can begin. So now the only question that remains is: when will I set sail with Viking once again?
